Chaing Mai, Thailand –
Yes, I know what they say.
“To find enlightenment, you must climb to the top of the mountain.”
How about I just ride the cable car instead?
It’s faster, and easier on the knees.
Yes, you lose the time spent in contemplation, as you are laboring your way up.
One step in front of the next.
But on the cable car, when you get to the top, you’re not nearly as out of breath.
At least for those of us not in great shape.
Plus, you avoid all of the people tempting you with trinkets or treats, trying to part you from your money, on the way up.
It’s much easier to say no when you’re going down the stairs and not huffing and puffing.
So, we’ve come to see Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, a well -known and popular temple, on the top of a mountain overlooking Chaing Mai, in the north of Thailand.
We happen to be visiting on the Thai King’s birthday, so it’s a national holiday, and just about everyone else is here as well.
There’s a sizable crowd here, with several groups of school children performing on the plaza in front of the temple, lots of people strolling about, watching, talking, taking photos, and otherwise enjoying the day with friends and family.
Knowing how these things tend to work, I wouldn’t be surprised if the majority of the people sitting in the chairs on the plaza just happen to be the parents of the various groups of kids who are performing.
I count at least three groups taking turns performing traditional dances, and a couple more performing traditional music, in two different spots.
The groups in each spot are taking turns between them, alternating a dance with a musical performance, but between the two locations, there are simultaneous performances going on.
Noticing how the groups in each spot are dressed in similar color schemes, the group to the right of the entrance wearing gold and white, while the group to the left is dressed in purples and gold, I would guess that each group may be from a different school.
Now, I have to say, this is the most curious of Buddhist temples that I have seen.
Yes, there’s the requisite rows of bells to ring, and a few monks wandering about, incense wafting in the air, a few statues of significant monks in the history of the temple, along with the other things you’ll find around most temples in Thailand.
But on either side of the main entrance are large statues of Ganesh, the Hindu elephant-looking god.
Then, on the back-side of the temple is another image of Ganesh on a stele, with an Om symbol on the top.
Hmm…
I’m not sure how Buddhism and Hinduism intersect here, but there appears to be some connection.
Once we go inside the temple itself, it’s still a very curious place, and unlike the other temples we’ve visited.
Of course, that’s the thing about visiting Buddhist temples in Thailand. They’re plentiful and all around, yet they each have their own, individual identity.
Inside is a large open-air courtyard, with a large copper Chedi in the center, looking like a golden mountain (A chedi holds Buddhist relics, sometimes the ashes of monks.)
Around the Chedi is a walkway crowded with people going clock-wise on a path, all carrying lit sticks of incense and a lotus flower, performing a kind of walking meditation. This walkway is partitioned off from the rest of the courtyard by a low wall about a meter or so high, which is topped with a wide variety of Buddha statues.
You have your standing Buddha’s, your sitting Buddha’s, and a few sleeping Buddha’s, mostly made of gold or copper, but a few are made from dark green Jade.
There are even a couple where Buddha is sitting on a throne with a fan of Cobras behind him.
Then, on the outside of the courtyard are the milling crowds of people, with a variety of more statues, gongs, candles, incense, lotus flowers, and a room with a monk bestowing blessings.
We have to watch where we walk to take care so we don’t stumble over some person prostrating in front of some random statue.
And then there are the people jockeying for position at various stations where they can participate in tasks like ladling oil into a row of metal lotus flower lamps, or lighting small candles in a row of candles.
All the various activities that penitents do while saying their prayers at holy shrines.
It’s just, probably because it’s the King’s Birthday, there’s a lot more people than you would probably find on most days.
This is not the place to be if you are overly claustrophobic.
If you’re merely run-of-the-mill claustrophobic, you might be able to handle it, as there’s still plenty of elbowroom around.
You just might need to step to the side to find it.
Eventually, everyone in our group has seen enough of the temple, and has gathered back outside, where we head over to the stairway that goes down the mountain.
A very long stairway.
My knees are glad that we took the cable car up instead of the stairs.
But there are plenty of people making their way up the stairs.
After all, it is the cheaper option.
There’s no fare for taking the stairs.
You just have to traverse the gauntlet of vendors that line both sides near the bottom, all trying to entice you to buy whatever it is they’re selling.
Along with a few young girls in traditional costume, whom I assume are trying to get you to part with some of your money as an act of charity.
Not being able to speak a common language, I can only guess that that’s what they were doing.
I did see a few people part with coins, placing them into the outstretched hands of one of the girls.
Or perhaps it was a package of candy that was being placed into those small hands.
I did see a couple of the girls sharing some form of edible treat.
And then, when we reached the base of the stairs, there’s a conga line of large dragons, festooned with colorful ribbons and other festive accessories..
After all, temples need sentries at the entrance, warning off any evil spirits that might consider venturing inside…
For more photos of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, click here.
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